Ethiopia Travelogue: The Land of Origins (Photo Reportage)
What you should know about Ethiopia
Ethiopia, a landlocked country located in the Horn of Africa, is a country
full of contrasts and diversity. From the rugged mountains of Simien and Bale
to the lush waterfalls of the Blue Nile, from the ancient rock churches of
Lalibela to the bustling markets of Addis Ababa, Ethiopia is a country that
captivates and surprises. Ethiopia has a history dating back more than 3,000
years, including the mystical tales of the famous Queen of Sheba and King
Solomon. It is one of the oldest civilizations in the world and its unique
blend of culture, traditions and religion reflects this rich and complex
history. It was also the second country to officially adopt Christianity,
after Armenia did so in 301 AD.
Ethiopia is one of the few African countries that has never been fully
colonised by a European power. This is not to say that Ethiopia was not
influenced by colonialism. In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, European
powers actively sought to establish colonies in Africa, a period known as the
'scramble for Africa'. Ethiopia was of particular interest to Italy, which
attempted to invade the country in 1896. However, Ethiopia under the
leadership of Emperor Menelik II successfully repelled the invasion at the
Battle of Adwa, which became a symbol of African resistance to European
colonialism.
[Fototabulka: (1 fotka, 1 sloupec)]
After the failed invasion, Italy continued to occupy parts of Ethiopia, including Eritrea and Somalia, which became Italian colonies. However, Ethiopia retained its independence and remained an important symbol of African resistance to colonialism. The country also played a key role in the Pan-African movement, which sought to unite African countries in the struggle against colonialism and racism.
Although it was never fully colonized, it experienced the consequences of
colonialism, including economic exploitation, cultural imperialism, and
political interference. The legacy of colonialism is still evident in Ethiopia
today, and the country continues to face problems of inequality, poverty and
political instability.
This ancient landlocked country is a true jewel of Africa. The country is home
to a population of more than 100 million people made up of various ethnic
groups, the Oromo, Amhara, Tigrayan and the 'State of the Southern Nations'
region (SNNPR), where more than 80 languages are spoken. Ethiopia is a hilly
country with mountains, rivers, valleys and diverse flora and fauna. Whether
you are interested in culture, history, nature or adventure, Ethiopia has
something to offer everyone.
It is sad to see the current situation in Ethiopia, which has faced civil war
in recent years. The ongoing conflict has caused a humanitarian crisis that
has led to displacement, loss of life and suffering for many Ethiopians. It is
a shame that this once peaceful nation, known for its hospitality and warmth,
has been marred by violence and political instability. I hope that peace will
soon be restored and that Ethiopia can once again flourish as a nation.
Our journey
I went on a trip to Ethiopia with two friends, blindly, without pre-booked
accommodation. We only had the contact details of a local driver, recommended
by a friend, and an itinerary of places we wanted to visit.
We are used to traveling at very low costs, sleeping in the cheapest hotels
and eating on the street or in the cheapest restaurants. Our goal on these
trips is to fully soak up the local atmosphere, to experience the culture,
food and traditional customs of the country.
Map of our journey in Ethiopia
[Mapa SmugMug/GPX: Map of our journey in Ethiopia]
Our journey began with a flight from Vienna Airport via Cairo to Addis Ababa,
the capital of Ethiopia. Here we met and got to know our driver Daniel for the
first time, who drove and accompanied us for a whole month on our journey in
Ethiopia. After getting acquainted, we drove into the city center and
fine-tuned the details of our trip over traditional Ethiopian coffee at a café
in front of Medhane Alem, the largest Orthodox cathedral in Africa. Coffee is
very important to Ethiopians and there is a ritual to its preparation and
serving. The coffee is roasted on an open fire, then ground and poured over
hot water in a ceramic pot called a Jebena. It is drunk from small cups
without sugar. Drinking coffee is also accompanied by the unforgettable smell
of incense, which gives this ritual a special, almost mystical atmosphere.
[Fototabulka: SmugMug (3 fotek, 3 sloupce)]
Debre Libanos Orthodox Tewahedo monastery
From Addis Ababa, after our morning coffee, we headed to Debre Markos, a town
in the Ethiopian highlands. Along the way we saw ordinary local farmers
working the fields with primitive ploughs pulled by cattle. It was obvious
that time had stopped here, and for us Europeans it was like a return to the
Middle Ages. Along the way we visited Debre Libanos Monastery, one of
Ethiopia's oldest and most important Orthodox monasteries. The monastery was
founded in the 13th century by Saint Tekle Haymanot, who is considered the
founder of Ethiopian monasticism. Inside the monastery we photographed the
beautiful frescoes and religious icons, and on a nearby rock we could see the
cave where Saint Tekle Haymanot lived.
[Fototabulka: SmugMug (4 fotek, 4 sloupce)]
At the next stop we had our first opportunity to see geladas, a species of
baboon that lives only in Ethiopia and is known for its red bald spot on its
chest.
[Fototabulka: Endemic Gelada (3 fotky, 3 sloupce)]
The gelada (Theropithecus gelada) is a species of Old World monkey in the cat
family that is endemic to the Ethiopian highlands. It is the only living
representative of the genus Theropithecus, which once included multiple
species distributed throughout Africa and Eurasia. Gelada feeds mainly on
plants, which make up to 90% of its diet. It is a terrestrial primate that
spends most of the day sitting on its hind legs and picking grass. Gelada has
thick brown fur and a dark face with light eyelids. Males are larger and
hairier than females and have a distinctive hourglass-shaped red patch on
their chest. Females have a less conspicuous patch on their chest, but this
becomes discoloured at the time of estrus and fluid-filled bubbles appear. The
gelada has a complex social structure based on mixed or all-male groups. The
gelada is estimated to number 200,000 individuals and is threatened by the
loss of its natural habitat due to human activities. Bahir Dar, Easter on the shores of Lake Tana
In the morning, after waking up in Debre Markos, we continued to Bahir Dar, one of the most beautiful towns in Ethiopia, located on the southwestern shore of Lake Tana, the largest lake in the country and the source of the Blue Nile. The city is famous for its wide avenues lined with palm trees and colourful flowers, its hospitality and its rich history and culture. It is also a great base for exploring nearby tourist attractions such as the waterfalls on the Blue Nile or the old island monasteries on Lake Tana.
[Fotka + Text: Blue Nile Falls in Bahir Dar (1x)]
During our visit, the weather was not kind to us and it rained a bit at times. In addition, there was little water in the falls in May during the dry season. Still, it was worth it. From the waterfall we walked to an old stone bridge that was built in 1626 by Portuguese missionaries. The bridge is believed to be the oldest surviving bridge in sub-Saharan Africa and is still functional. The bridge had a beautiful view of the valley and the surrounding countryside.
We were in Bahir Dar during Easter, which is a very important religious holiday for Ethiopians. Ethiopia belongs to the Ethiopian Orthodox Church, which follows the Julian calendar and celebrates Easter a week later than we do. The Easter atmosphere was felt everywhere. We saw Ethiopians dressed in traditional white robes gathering at churches where they prayed, sang and danced. The celebrations last throughout the holy week, which begins with Palm Sunday, during which the faithful decorate their homes with palm leaves and the clergy distribute palm leaf ornaments to the faithful to attach to their foreheads as headbands or wear as rings," The ringing of church bells and drumming could be heard from the churches. It was very impressive.
[Fototabulka: Orthodox Christian pilgrim at worship on the street during easter (3 fotky, 3 sloupce)]
Another goal of our stay in Bahir Dar was a boat trip on Lake Tana, which is home to many species of birds and fish, and especially a visit to the ancient monasteries, which hide precious icons, frescoes and relics. Some of these monasteries are over a thousand years old and yet are still inhabited by monks and nuns.
[Fototabulka: Kidane Mehret Church (3 fotky, 3 sloupce)]
[Fotka + Text: Kidane Mehret Church (1x)]
Tana Haik Entons Eysus is one of the oldest monasteries on Lake Tana. It was founded in the 4th century by Saint Frumenty, who was the first bishop of Ethiopia. The monastery is particularly associated with the veneration of Saint George, who is one of the most venerated saints in Ethiopian Orthodox Christianity.
Bahir Dar impressed us with its beauty, atmosphere and spirituality. It was one of the most interesting places we visited in Ethiopia and I would love to return some day. If you are looking to experience a different culture, history and nature, I recommend Bahir Dar as an ideal destination.
[Fototabulka: Monastery Azwa Maryam (3 fotky, 3 sloupce)]
Gondar, in the footsteps of Ethiopian emperors
After visiting Bahir Dar and its surroundings, we headed north to Gondar, the city that was the capital of the Ethiopian Empire in the 17th and 18th centuries. Along the way, we stopped at the ruins of Guzara Royal Palace, which is believed to be the first of many castles located in the Gondar area. The castle was built in 1572 by Emperor Sarsa Dengal, who stayed here after his victory over the Ottoman army. The castle is surrounded by walls. it has two floors with a rectangular plan and a round tower in the corner. Although the castle is in ruins, it is still impressive and shows the architectural style of the early Gondar period, which was influenced by Central European, Turkish and Portuguese influences.
[Fototabulka: Ruins of Guzara royal palace (2 fotky, 2 sloupce)]
Fasil Ghebbi, royal castle in Gondar, Ethiopia
Ruins of famous african castle Fasil Ghebbi, Royal fortress-city in Gondar, Ethiopia. Imperial palace is called Camelot of Africa. UNESCO World Heritage Site.
[Fototabulka: Fasil Ghebbi (1 fotka, 1 sloupec)]
It was also interesting to visit the nearby Baths of Fasilides, where the annual Timkat festival is held, during which the pool is filled with water and people bathe there as a symbol of baptism.
[Fotka + Text: UNESCO Fasilides Bath Africa Ethiopia (1x)]
Gondar impressed us with its size, history, architecture and atmosphere. It was like traveling back in time to the time of the Ethiopian emperors and their glory. If you love history, culture and art, we recommend Gondar as another essential part of your trip to Ethiopia.
From Gondar to the Simien Mountain Wilderness
If you love nature, animals and adventure, then you should not miss a visit to Simien Mountains National Park in northern Ethiopia. This park is one of the most beautiful and wild places in the world, where you can enjoy amazing landscapes created by millions of years of erosion, meet rare endemic animal species such as the endangered gelada and the walia ibex ibex, which you won't see anywhere else.
[Fotka + Text: lobelia plant in Semien or Simien Mountains (1x)]
These antelope are endemic to Ethiopia and are very shy. After a few hours of driving on the mountain trails, we arrived at our campsite in Sankaber where we set up our tents and had a cold, self-sourced dinner after an afternoon of walking on the mountain trails. The evening was quite cool under the starry sky, and the temperature dropped to almost zero at night. We had to dress well and wrap up properly in our sleeping bags.
The next morning we packed up the tents, loaded them into the car and went in search of Walia Ibex. Walia ibex is a wild mountain goat that is found only in the Simien Mountains. This species is critically endangered and it is estimated that there are only about 500 of them left in the world. The Walia ibex has long horns that bend backwards and can measure up to a metre long. It lives on steep cliffs and feeds on grass and herbs. We were very lucky to see a fairly large herd not far from the top of Bwahit, which at one point even mixed with a passing group of gelada. They let us get within a few dozen meters, it was an amazing experience.
[Fototabulka: Endemic Gelada (3 fotky, 3 sloupce)]
[Fotka + Text: Ethiopian shepherdess girl (1x)]
The Kingdom of Aksum and the Ark of the Covenant
After three days in the Simien Mountains National Park, our next destination was the ancient city of Aksum. The powerful Aksum Kingdom ruled northeast Africa and southern Arabia from the 1st to the 9th century AD. We were impressed by the contrast between this city and the Simien Mountains. While the Simien Mountains were wild and untouched, Aksum was a city full of life and history.
[Fotka + Text: tigray woman resting in center of of Aksum (1x)]
During our stay in Aksum we visited the most interesting sights of this city. Among them were the obelisks in the Stele Park, which houses the largest and oldest stele in Aksum. Steles are obelisks made of stone or metal that served as monuments or symbols of power. Some of them are decorated with reliefs depicting architecture, animals and the inhabitants of the kingdom at the time. The largest stele in the park measures 33 metres and weighs 520 tonnes, and is the largest monolithic stone ever carved by humans. Unfortunately, it collapsed while trying to be erected and broke into several pieces.
[Fototabulka: Ancient obelisks in city Aksum (2 fotky, 2 sloupce)]
The most holy place in Ethiopia is considered to be the Temple of Our Lady of Zion. It was built on the site of an old 4th century church that was destroyed by Muslim invaders in the 10th century. According to legend, the Ark of the Covenant containing the Ten Commandments is kept in the chapel of this church. Unfortunately, the chapel is not open to the public. The Ark of the Covenant was a sacred chest that contained the tablets of the law that Moses received from God at Mount Sinai. It was kept in the Temple of Jerusalem and was lost after its destruction in 586 B.C. Ethiopian legends tell of its transfer by Emperor Menelik I to Aksum, precisely to the chapel of the Temple of Our Lady of Zion, where it became one of the cornerstones of the Ethiopian Christian Church.
[Fototabulka: Church of Our Lady of Zion in Axum (3 fotky, 3 sloupce)]
The golden age of Aksum was the reign of King Caleb, who ruled in the 6th century and was known for his military achievements and Christian faith. However, the royal tomb of Khaleb and Gebre Meskel is rather symbolic, as Khaleb retired to the Pentaleion Monastery at the end of his life, where it is also said to be buried. It is therefore more likely to be the place where the kings probably stayed for the last time.
Near the ancient tombs of King Caleb and Gebre Meskel are the baths of the Queen of Sheba. It is a natural pool which, according to legend, was built by the Queen of Sheba in the first millennium BC. Every January, the pool is the centre of attention in Aksum when the Epiphany, also known as Timkat, is celebrated.
[Fototabulka: Tombs of Kings Kaleb & Gebre Meskel (2 fotky, 2 sloupce)]
The Mystical Queen of Sheba
[Fotka + Text: Queen Of Sheba Swimming Pool (1x)]
She probably lived in the 10th century BC and according to the stories, she was a powerful and wealthy queen who ruled over an area that was located in present-day Ethiopia or Yemen. According to legend, she visited King Solomon in Israel to see his wisdom and piety. A love affair between her and Solomon resulted in the birth of her son Menelik I, the founder of the Ethiopian imperial dynasty.
Another historical attraction in Aksum are the remains of the alleged palace of the Queen of Sheba. This palace is known as Dungur or Dungur 'Addi Kilte. It is the extensive ruins of an important stone and brick mansion located on the outskirts of the city. Legend has it that this was the residence of the Queen of Sheba, but archaeologists claim that the palace was built later, around the 7th century.
We felt like we were part of the history and culture of Ethiopia as we toured these breathtaking monuments. Aksum captivated us with its former glory and mystery.
[Fototabulka: Ruins of Aksum (Axum) civilization (3 fotky, 3 sloupce)]
Ruins of the Temple of Yeha and Grat Beal Gebri
Our next destination was Mekele, the capital of the Tigray region and the gateway to the Danakil Gorge. The journey from Aksum to Mekele was long and challenging, but full of interesting stops and surprises.
One of the most interesting stops was the ruins of the ancient temple of Yeha, the temple of the moon. This temple is believed to be the oldest standing building in Ethiopia, dating back to 700 BC. The temple was built in the style of the Sabeans, who influenced the culture and religion of the pre-Axumite kingdom of D'mt. It is 12 meters high and is made of large precision stone blocks that are simply stacked on top of each other without the use of mortar or cement. The temple was dedicated to the god Almougah, who was worshipped as the god of the moon and fertility. It is very well preserved, although it was later converted into a Christian church for Saint Abun Aftse, one of the nine saints who spread Christianity in Ethiopia. The ruins of an ancient palace and a cemetery with stone tombs are still on the grounds of the Yeha temple.
[Fototabulka: Ruins of the Yeha temple in Yeha (3 fotky, 3 sloupce)]
There is another archaeological site near the Temple of Yeha. These are the ruins of the temple of Grat Beal Gebri dating back to the 8th century BC. It is a ruin with a 10 meter wide portico, two sets of square pillars and a cemetery with several stone shaft tombs. The temple was dedicated to the god Mahrem, who was worshipped as a god of war and protection.
[Fototabulka: Ruins of the Grat Beal Gebri temple of Yeha (2 fotky, 2 sloupce)]
Mekele, capital of Tigray and gateway to the Danakil Depression
After visiting the remains of these temples, we continued our journey through the mountainous landscape of Tigray state. We were amazed by the beauty and diversity of the area. We passed green valleys, rocky peaks, deep gorges and photographed the traditional way of life of the ordinary Ethiopians. After a full day of driving, we arrived in Mekele towards evening. We checked into a comfortable hotel and went for an early evening walk into town. Mekele is a modern and lively town with many restaurants, shops and monuments. An ideal place to prepare for our next trip to the Danakil Depression.
[Fototabulka: Ethiopian beauty woman in Mekelle (2 fotky, 2 sloupce)]
Danakil Depression
[Fototabulka: Moonscape of Dallol Lake (1 fotka, 1 sloupec)]
The Danakil Depression is the hottest and lowest place on Earth, with an average annual temperature of 34 degrees Celsius and a record high of 55 degrees Celsius. It is home to one of the wildest and most exotic landscapes on the planet. Three tectonic plates meet here to form a rift valley 125 metres below sea level. The result is a geological phenomenon full of volcanoes, lava lakes, salt flats, hydrothermal vents and colourful minerals. Although we arrived in the Danakil Gorge a little after 8am, it was unbearably hot, but the scenery was absolutely breathtaking. I don't think I'll see anything like it anywhere else.
[Fototabulka: Dallol (3 fotky, 3 sloupce)]
From the Danakil gorge we moved to the nearby rock town, where there are several rock formations created by erosion and volcanic activity. Some of them take the form of towers, columns, mushrooms or even animals. It was like walking through a giant natural sculpture park.
[Fototabulka: Rock city in Danakil depression (1 fotka, 1 sloupec)]
On the way back we stopped at a group of Afars who were mining salt on the plain. The Afar are an ethnic group living in Ethiopia, Eritrea and Djibouti. They are a very resilient and proud people who have maintained their traditional culture and religion despite the harsh living conditions. We were fascinated to watch them carve salt slabs out of the ground on the plains in the intense heat and scorching sun using simple tools such as axes, shovels and knives. These are then loaded onto camels and transported in a caravan to villages or towns for sale.
[Fototabulka: Afar tribe mining salt in Danakil depression (3 fotky, 3 sloupce)]
[Fotka + Text: Injera traditional and national dish of Ethiopia (1x)]
The rock churches of Lalibela, the wondrous heritage of Ethiopian Christianity
[Fotka + Text: Church of Saint George (1x)]
[Fototabulka: Orthodox Christian Ethiopian believers (3 fotky, 3 sloupce)]
One of the most important and interesting monuments of Ethiopia are undoubtedly the monolithic churches carved into the rock in Lalibela, which are considered one of the wonders of the world. These churches are unique works of art and architecture that were built in the 12th and 13th centuries during the reign of King Lalibela, who decided to build a new Jerusalem in his empire.
There are a total of eleven rock churches in Lalibela and they are carved out of a monolith of tuff volcanic rock. Some of them are freestanding, others are attached to the rock and some are connected to each other by tunnels and passageways. The churches are divided into three groups according to their location and symbolism. The northern group represents the earthly Jerusalem, the southern group the heavenly Jerusalem, and the separate church of St. George symbolizes Noah's Ark.
The rock monolith churches in Lalibela are richly decorated with reliefs, paintings and icons that tell stories from the Bible and Ethiopian history. The churches are still active, with masses taking place and ordinary Ethiopians coming here for prayer and worship. The rock churches of Lalibela are not only a national treasure of Ethiopia, but also a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
[Fototabulka: Bete Abba Libanos Rock-Hewn Church (4 fotky, 4 sloupce)]
[Fototabulka: Biete Amanuel underground Orthodox monolith Lalibela (4 fotky, 4 sloupce)]
Awash National Park
After a full day's journey from Lalibela, we arrived in the evening in the town of Awash, where we checked in. In the morning we went to Awash National Park. The park is located on the border between the Oromia and Afar regions, about 215 km from the capital Addis Ababa. This park is one of the oldest and most beautiful national parks in Ethiopia.
[Fototabulka: Savanna in the Awash National Park (1 fotka, 1 sloupec)]
[Fotka + Text: waterfall in Awash National Park (1x)]
[Fototabulka: East African oryx (3 fotky, 3 sloupce)]
Bale Mountains, a journey to see the rare endemic fauna of Ethiopia
The Bale Mountains are part of the Ethiopian highlands and are located in the Oromia region. It is a mountain range that offers spectacular views of the mountain landscape and the ubiquitous villages. It's amazing where people live everywhere. The Bale Mountains are known for their high mountain biodiversity and the presence of many endemic species of animals and plants. We saw groups of Chackma baboons on the way up the mountains and saw the first local endemics, the Nyala Mountain and Northern Mudpuppies, in the foothills. These two species of antelope live only in Ethiopia. The mountain Nyala (Tragelaphus buxtoni) is a large antelope with long hair and a striped back. The Northern Mudskipper (Redunca redunca) is a smaller antelope with reddish-brown fur and a white tail. In the evening we stayed in one of the cheap hotels in the town of Goba.
[Fototabulka: Bale Mountain (1 fotka, 1 sloupec)]
The next morning we headed into the mountains to see the critically endangered Ethiopian wolf (Canis simensis), the rarest canid in the world. The Ethiopian wolf is a small, slender dog with reddish-brown fur and a white belly. It lives only at high altitudes above 3,000 metres and feeds mainly on rodents. It is estimated that there are only about the last 400 left in the world. We were lucky, on the Sanetti Plateau, which is its territory, we watched a couple hunting rodents (Tachyoryctes macrocephalus) for an hour and another wolf on the way to Harena Forest.
Harena Forest is one of the last natural forests in the country and is home to rare and endemic species of plants and animals. It lies on the southern slope of the Bale Mountains, which form the southwestern part of the Ethiopian highlands. The forest has a tropical mountain climate and ranges from 1,450 to 3,200 meters above sea level. Some parts of the forest are often covered with dense fog.
[Fototabulka: Ethiopian wolf (3 fotky, 3 sloupce)]
Our visit to the Bale Mountains was coming to an end. On the last day we had one more goal, to see and photograph the Mountains Nyala. These rare and endangered antelope live only in this park and are considered one of the most beautiful mammals in Africa. In addition to them, we were able to photograph other interesting species such as the Menelik Bushbuck (Tragelaphus scriptus meneliki), which is endemic to the Ethiopian highlands, and the Bohor reedbuck (Redunca redunca), which is the largest representative of its genus. It was a beautiful farewell to this amazing place.
[Fototabulka: Mountain nyala (3 fotky, 3 sloupce)]
From the Bale Mountains to Arba Minch
After a few days spent in the Bale Mountains, where we admired the beautiful nature and wildlife, we set off on the next leg of our Ethiopia trip. Our next destination was the town of Arba Minch, located on the shores of Lake Abaya in the southern part of the country. The journey was long and challenging, but also full of interesting stops and encounters.
[Fotka + Text: Young Ethiopian woman standing behind her house (1x)]
[Fotka + Text: Ethiopian landscape near Arba Minch (1x)]
Arba Minch, the journey to the lake of giant crocodiles
[Fototabulka: Lake Chamo landscape (1 fotka, 1 sloupec)]
Arba Minch is a town in the south of Ethiopia, named after 40 springs. The town lies at the foot of the western side of the Great Rift Valley and is surrounded by two large lakes, Lake Abaya to the north and Lake Chamo to the south. Arba Minch is the gateway to Nechisar National Park, home to the country's rich flora and fauna.
One of the main tourist attractions of Arba Minch is Lake Chamo, where the so-called Crocodile Market is located, a place where giant Nile crocodiles, which can grow up to 6 metres in length, congregate.
[Fototabulka: Big nile crocodile (1 fotka, 1 sloupec)]
[Fotka + Text: Park scout guardian with rifle (1x)]
Jinka, the entrance gate to the Omo Valley
During our unforgettable month-long journey through Ethiopia, we visited another very interesting city, Jinka, located in the southern part of the country. Jinka is considered the gateway to the breathtaking Omo Valley. The drive from Arba Minch was long but again full of incredible experiences and spectacular views.
One of the stops was in the village of Konso where we admired the traditional architecture and way of life of the locals. The Konso are one of the many ethnic groups that make up the rich cultural mosaic of Ethiopia. They are known for their fortified villages, fertile gardens and rich culture. They still retain their traditional customs, lifestyle and are a popular destination for tourists in the southern region of the country.
[Fototabulka: Fantastic walled village tribes Konso (3 fotky, 3 sloupce)]
Tribes and ethnic groups in the Omo Valley
[Fotka + Text: Boys with stilts from Bana tribe (1x)]
Her mother then cuts the skin under her lower lip and inserts a small wooden plug. As the wound heals, the girl gradually inserts a larger and larger wooden plate. The bigger the plate the more attractive the girl is to her man. The plates can reach up to twelve centimetres in diameter. However, if her husband dies, the girl has to cut off her lip and becomes unattractive.
The Mursi are one of the most exotic and mysterious ethnic groups in the Omo Valley of Ethiopia. They live isolated from the rest of the world and preserve their culture and traditions. In the past, they were considered a very hostile and violent ethnic group who rejected outsiders in their villages. That may be why the Ethiopian army patrol outside the village. Most of the Mursi men are armed. In Ethiopia, a gun is a sign of a man's maturity and ability to protect his family. Most often it's an AK-47 assault rifle. When you travel around Ethiopia, you see guns at every turn. And it's not just Mursi.
Today, the Mursi are more open to visitors, but they still maintain their identity and pride. It was like entering another world. We saw women with large plates placed under their lower lip, men and women with decorative scars on their bodies, and naked children adorned with jewelry made of shells and pearls. Photography in the village was subject to strict rules. There was a fee for every click of the camera and for every person in the photograph. The resulting photographs and the experience of visiting the village is indescribable and unforgettable.
[Fototabulka: Most dangerous African people Mursi tribe (2 fotky, 2 sloupce)]
From the village of Mursi we moved to the town of Omorate, where we stayed in a cheap hotel and from where we went to visit the village of the Hammar ethnic group. The Hammar are another of the interesting tribes in Ethiopia who are famous for their traditional ritual called "bull jumping". This ritual is used to initiate boys into manhood and is very important to the Hamars. The whole process of bull-jumping begins with the female relatives of the boys dancing and singing while the men whip their backs. In this way they show their support for the initiator of the ritual, who will have to prove his courage and strength. A boy who wants to become a man must run back and forth twice on the backs of a line of bulls. If he fails, he is ridiculed. But if he successfully completes the jump, he is officially a man and can marry a woman. Adult men of the Hammar tribe style their hair with clay and pigments of red and white. This mixture is then smoothed and shaped in various ways. Here, too, we had to follow the rules of photography, as in the village of Mursi.
[Fototabulka: Hamar Tribe of the Omo River Valley (3 fotky, 3 sloupce)]
Dassanech people, a nomadic tribe on the banks of the Omo River
Our journey to the Dassanech ethnic group took us to the banks of the Omo River, the lifeblood of many ethnic groups in the Omo Valley. Here a ferryman was waiting to take us across the mythical Omo River in a traditional wicker boat. On these small and unstable boats I am always afraid of drowning my photo equipment. Etnikum Dassanech lives in an area on the border of Kenya and South Sudan. The Dassanech are known for their ability to adapt to the harsh conditions of the semi-desert climate, as well as for their original jewellery making from recycled materials.
On arrival at the village we were greeted by the local village chief, whom we paid for a tour and the opportunity to take photographs. This money goes directly to support the local community, which is struggling with lack of resources and conflicts with surrounding tribes. The chief provided us with a guide who explained the customs and traditions of the Dassanech. We were free to move around the village this time and could take as many photos as we wanted.
[Fototabulka: Wooden coarse boat on mystical Omo river (4 fotky, 4 sloupce)]
The village was surrounded by a fence of branches that protected low domed huts and animal pens. The huts were made of intertwined branches covered with skins or sheet metal. Children played outside in their shade.
Before we left, local women and girls had set up a small market with handmade jewelry and souvenirs. It was hard to resist their offerings and each of us ended up buying something.
Dorze Village
Early in the morning after waking up in Arba Minch we went to the local crocodile farm. This is one of the largest crocodile farms in Ethiopia and you can see hundreds of these reptiles of various sizes.
After visiting the farm, we took a trip to the nearby village of Dorze. This is a small community of the Dorze ethnic group, known for their unique elephant head shaped houses. These are tall conical structures made of bamboo poles, reeds and leaves of enset, a type of banana tree. The hut has two floors, the lower floor serves as living space for the family and the upper floor as storage space for food, utensils and other items.
In the village we were greeted by a guide who invited us into one of the houses. The inside of the hut is simple, with no furniture or other decorative features. The family sleeps on the floor on mattresses or mats and the cattle spend the night in a separate area next door. They use an open fire to cook their food. Although dorze huts are very simple, they are very practical and well adapted to the local climate.
[Fototabulka: Traditional Elephant-shaped huts in Dorze tribe Village (3 fotky, 3 sloupce)]
During our visit to the village of Dorze, the women showed us hand-spinning cotton and the preparation of the local specialty Kocho. Kocho is a traditional flatbread made from the enset plant, which is related to the banana tree. First, the leaves of the enset are grated and wrapped in the leaves of the banana tree, then buried in the ground where they ferment for several days. They are then taken out and mixed with water to form a dough, which is then spread on a hot pan over an open fire and baked until golden. We tasted the pancake for lunch and our hosts offered us traditional local brandy to accompany it. This was a strong alcoholic drink with a sharp taste and high alcohol content. It would have been rude to refuse. We spent the whole afternoon with the brandy. In the evening, we returned to Arba Mich in high spirits.
[Fototabulka: Dorze woman is spinning cotton (2 fotky, 2 sloupce)]
Hawassa, visit to Amora Gedel Park
The Amora Gedel Park is located on the shores of the Awasa drainage lake, which lies at an altitude of 1708 metres. The park is home to many species of birds and mammals that can be observed up close. The park is home to the habituated Cape Guérés, which we tried in vain to photograph near the village of Hammar. The Cape guereza (Colobus guereza) is a species of monkey belonging to the cat family. This species inhabits forests and savannahs in East Africa, from Ethiopia to Tanzania and Kenya. The Cape guereza is an endangered species, mainly due to the loss of its natural habitat due to deforestation and agriculture. In addition to the guerezas, we photographed the habituated marabou and catbirds in the park, which feed on food scraps from park visitors. The park is an ideal place to relax and unwind.
[Fototabulka: Monkey Colobus guereza (2 fotky, 2 sloupce)]
Swaynes Hartebeest endangered buffalo expedition
[Fotka + Text: Swayne's Hartebeest (1x)]
Wondo Genet and the Ziway Lake
[Fotka + Text: African pygmy kingfisher (1x)]
After lunch here, we met a local guide who convinced us to go to Cheleleka Wetland. We were curious what to expect as we had not heard of this place, including our driver. It is a wetland area that covers an area of approximately 13 km² and is made up of several small lakes and swamps that are connected by streams and canals. Some of the ponds are thermal with high water temperature, and one pond had hippos.
[Fototabulka: Panorama of ethiopian lake Ziway (1 fotka, 1 sloupec)]
I guess not many tourists come here, because after our arrival almost the whole village came running to us. They came to see what was going on. They were all very friendly, which made it all the more unfortunate that we ended up having a few minor inconveniences. As we left the place, the villagers demanded a financial reward for our visit. Our guide from Wondo Genet had no agreement with the local villagers, so we handed over the agreed payment to the guide for visiting this place to the villagers after a short argument.
In addition, the local children stole my sunglasses during a moment of inattention while I was looking for souvenirs in their suitcase. It wasn't something that would have bothered me greatly, if they had asked for them I would have given them to them, but it cast a shadow on the inhabitants of the place.
From Cheleka Wetland we headed to the town of Ziway to catch an evening walk around the lake. Ziway is a freshwater lake fed by the Meki River and several smaller tributaries. It is an important place for waterfowl, especially for various species of gulls, pelicans and cormorants. Unfortunately, what we saw disappointed us. There was a lot of litter and dirt all around. We stayed in a cheap hotel near the lake in the early evening.
Return to Addis Ababa
In the morning we went to the hotel by the lake for breakfast. During this we received a text message from our agent about the cancellation of our flight. It was not clear from the message what flight it was and the agent was unavailable. We decided to resolve the situation at the airport. After breakfast we went to the capital Addis Ababa as planned. During the trip we stopped a few times to take some last pictures of the interesting scenery. We arrived at Bole International airport in the afternoon.
We had to say goodbye to our great driver and guide Daniel. We were absolutely delighted with his professional attitude, helpfulness and friendliness. He was a man who was able to take care of every problem we encountered during our. His knowledge of the local culture and history allowed us to better understand and appreciate the beauty and attractions of Ethiopia. We will not only remember him, but hope to meet him again, perhaps on one of our next trips to Ethiopia.
Then we went through the check-in and security check. At the airport we checked our flight situation with the airport staff, but it was still unclear which flight was cancelled. Our plane finally took off at midnight exactly as scheduled and we said our final goodbyes to Ethiopia.
Cairo and the other side of Giza
We had a few hours layover at Cairo airport, so we thought we would just stretch our legs there and continue on to Vienna. When we arrived in Cairo, we were in for a nasty surprise. We learned from the airport staff that our flight to Vienna had been cancelled and rescheduled for the next day. This meant that we had to spend the whole day and night without our luggage in an airport hotel in Cairo.
[Fotka + Text: Mosque of Saladin Citadel (1x)]
We wanted to at least see them from the outside. On the way to the pyramids, we observed the bustling life on the streets of Cairo, which is full of contrasts. We saw modern skyscrapers, old mosques, luxury cars and beside them donkeys with carts, designer shops and ordinary street stalls.
In a remote alley near the pyramids, where the hotel driver took us, we hired a horse cart to drive into the desert to the pyramids. We probably would never have set foot in those places on our own. But the driver convinced us that we were fine and that it should be relatively safe. Two days later, not far away, local radicals detonated a bomb in a bus of South African tourists. So I guess it was safe there. But what we saw on the way out of the horse carriage as we drove through the old Giza is probably not something many tourists will see. We drove through the narrow streets of the old town where we met ordinary Egyptians, on one street we saw horses on the side of the road that had just been left there, there was a lot of garbage everywhere and a strong smell. Just something completely different from the way Egyptian pyramids are presented on TV or by travel agencies.
[Fototabulka: Horse chariot in street of Giza Cairo (3 fotky, 3 sloupce)]
On our way back to the hotel, we visited the "City of the Dead." The City of the Dead is a series of vast Islamic necropolises and cemeteries in Cairo that are included on the UNESCO World Heritage List. Life in the City of the Dead is not as spooky as it might seem at first glance based on its name. For many ordinary people, it is the only way to find affordable housing in overcrowded Cairo. Some tombs are large and luxurious, with bathrooms, kitchens, and electricity, while others are small and modest, with mattresses on the floor and candles for lighting. The residents of the City of the Dead are either descendants of families who have lived here for generations, or migrants from the countryside and refugees. Getting to know the unpolished side of Cairo and Giza was another unforgettable experience for us.
[Fototabulka: Old part of Cairo (3 fotky, 3 sloupce)]
The next day we flew to Vienna. I hope you enjoyed my post about our trip to Ethiopia. If you did, let me know in the comments. And if you have any questions or comments, feel free to email me. Have a great day and happy travels!
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